Chennai is often celebrated for its filter coffee and beach sunsets, but if you look closer at the "White Castle" standing tall near Central Station, you’ll find the very soul of the city’s history. On February 28, 2026, I joined a heritage walk curated by Nam Veedu Nam Ooru Nam Kadhai to explore the legendary Ripon Building.
The Birth of a Corporation
While Madras was founded on August 22, 1639, it took the British nearly 50 years to realize the massive potential for trade and travel here. This led to the birth of the Madras Corporation in 1688—making it the second oldest corporation in the world, following only London.
For centuries, the administration functioned out of Fort St. George. However, in 1913, the city saw the rise of its own dedicated civic seat: The Ripon Building.
Architectural Grandeur: Neo-Classical Excellence
Walking up to the building, the first thing you notice is the departure from the "Indo-Saracenic" red-brick style typical of British Madras (like the High Court or Central Station).
The Style: Neo-Classical, designed to revive the grace of ancient Greek and Roman aesthetics.
The Creators: Designed by G.S.T. Harris and constructed by the legendary Loganatha Mudaliyar.
The Cost: Construction began in 1909 with an estimate of 3.5 lakhs but concluded in 1913 at a total of 7.8 lakhs.
What makes it truly "Madras" is that while the design was Western, the artisans were local. From the intricate floral patterns that play with optical illusions to the stunning electric chandeliers, the craftsmanship is homegrown.
Inside the Council Hall: Where Chennai Decides
On the second floor lies the Council Hall. It’s the "Parliament of Chennai."
The People: Today, Chennai has 200 Councillors across 15 zones. Back in the 1950s, these members were known as Aldermen.
The Shift: Until 1933, the mayors were exclusively British. This changed when M.A. Muthiah Chettiar became the first Indian Mayor, marking a new era for the city.
The Details: The furniture here is a masterclass in woodwork, featuring a blend of light Teak and dark Rosewood.
Did you know? The GCC logo we see today—featuring the three kings (Chera, Chola, Pandya) and a ship—replaced the old British logo of Fort St. George to reflect our Tamil heritage.
The Heartbeat: The 132-Foot Clock Tower
We concluded our walk at the Clock Tower. Though it looks modest from the street, it stands at a staggering 132 feet.
The Age: The clock is 117 years old and remains one of India’s 53 heritage clock towers.
The Routine: For over a century, a timekeeper has climbed to the top to manually rewind the mechanism.
The Comparison: It shares a mechanical lineage with the Westminster’s Big Ben, serving as the rhythmic heartbeat for the surrounding area, including St. Andrews Kirk and Central Station.
Final Thoughts
If you live in Chennai, your list of "things to do" shouldn't just be about the newest cafes or malls. The Ripon Building is a reminder that to truly belong to a city, you must understand the history that built its streets.
A Personal Connection: Why This Walk Changed Me
Before this walk, the Ripon Building was just a majestic white landmark I passed on my way to Central Station. but standing within its walls on February 28, 2026, I felt a profound sense of belonging. It was my very first heritage walk, and the experience was transformative.
There is a specific kind of pride that hits you when you realize you are walking the same halls where M.A. Muthiah Chettiar, the first Indian Mayor, made history in 1933. Being united with such a rich heritage makes you feel like more than just a resident; it makes you a guardian of the city’s legacy.
"At 132 feet tall, this clock tower is 117 years old. It remains one of India’s 53 heritage clock towers, sharing a mechanical lineage with Westminster’s Big Ben. To this day, it requires a manual rewind to keep the city on schedule."
History in a nut shell. Keep it up👍
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